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SNaP Studios Photo Pockets Bundle, Photo Flip Photo Album Pages, Journalling, Memory Keeping, Scrapbooking, Brag Book

5 Packs of assorted sizes pockets for creating your own projects


Add a photo to your project in a snap with Photo Flips Variety Pack! Each pack contains flips to hold your most precious photographs. Simply insert a photo, peel the adhesive backing, and stick to any pocket page or project! Perfect for scrapbookers, artists, and more! 

Check out this video for lots of top tips and inspiration of what you could do with yours

copy and paste the below into your tool bar or view videos on my Facebook page www.facebook.com/hlcuk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-zcrkh04cXU

Agapanthus - From the Heart Design Sheet - curvy scallops

From the heart design sheet

What you will need to make this card

Design Sheet can be bought here:  http://www.craftsuprint.com/card-making/quick-cards/floral/from-the-heart-painted-agapanthus-design-sheet-with-scallope.cfm

This card has been made by Gwyneth George

This is how Gwyneth made it

I printed the design onto Super Smooth white card and cut out the pieces. I took a white square card and stuck the scalloped paper ribbon down directly on the fold side before trimming off the excess. I stuck the base layer of the image directly to the card near the top right. I then stuck a blank greetings panel towards the bottom left using 1mm deep double sided foam tape and used the same tape to build up the central scallped pyramid. I finished off the card with several sizes of the same coloured faux gems. A lovely image that would be great for Mother's Day, Get Well or a Birthday card.  

Get Crafting.... Calling all Cardmakers

Large Square Card Front Card Design Sheet With Scalloped Stackers, a co-ordinating ribbon and a large selection of text toppers to choose from

Look at this Fab Card Dianne Jackson has made using this design sheet

You can buy this design sheet from craftsuprint here for 80p

Simple buy and download and you will have this digital sheet to use time and time again

** For best results print onto quality decoupage paper

Great how to instructions for this card from Diane

I mounted onto a card with an embossed border that is in 2 parts and added the strip in the centre of the 2 parts. I added the pyramid layers using sticky pads and added my chosen sentiment to the border. I finished off with silver elasticated lilac bead trim to the spine. I just love the scalloped pyramid, it is unusual and I would love to see more in this style. This is such a pretty design 


For more design sheets from craftsuprint click below

Free Knitting Pattern Lace Ruffle Scarf

Go on... give it a go

 

 

You will need:

 

Vanna's Glamour (1)Size 6 and 17*

You will need three size 17needles.

If you only have two, then a smaller needle will do. 

I used a size 15 Stitch holder (if you are worried about the first half of your scarf slipping off the needle while working on the second half)

With Size 6 needle, cast on 80 stitches

Row 1: Knit

Row 2: Purl

Row 3: Knit

Row 4: Purl

Row 5: Knit

Row 6: Purl

Row 7: K2tog across row - 40 sts

Row 8: P2tog across row - 20 sts

 

Change to Size 17 needles on the next rowRow 9: K1 *YO, K2tog* Repeat from * to last 

stitch, K1 - Repeat this row until first half of scarf is appx. 22 inches. 

Cut yarn.

If you have another Size 17, grab it and start casting on for the second half.

If you do not have a third size 17 needle, go ahead and just transfer the first half to the

needle you plan to use for binding off. Or, if you are afraid the scarf will slide off the needle, 

place thee

scarf onto a stitch holder for more security.

Transfer the first half to the needle when ready to bind off.

 

Repeat above instructions until second piece measures appx 22inches. Join the two halves with 3 needle bind off. Weave in loose ends and go wear your new scarf!

 

Yes, I was a little nutty for doing it this way, as getting a stitch that was formed on a Size 6 

needle onto a Size 17 needle is ratherdifficult. But I wanted a nice, firm ruffle, and I liked 

how it lookedgoing directly into the larger mesh of the scarf as opposed topicking up and 

adding the ruffle after the fact. To help transfer thestitches, I slipped a few at a time as I 

went onto the larger needle tostretch them a little, then back to the smaller needles and 

then knitting them onto the 17s was much easier. You could add theruffle after the fact 

if you do not even want to attempt getting theruffle stitches into the Size 17 needles.

I have also added a video on knitting this scarf to my YouTubeChannel.

 

If you have problems with the pattern, feel free to send me an emailatsapphiresnpurls@gmail.com 

Credit given to by Bea Ann

Stunning Fingerless Gloves Pattern

The return of Spring and warmer weather often leads people to rush outside at their first chance. Festivals, concerts, and other outdoor gatherings begin popping up. While this is certainly a beautiful time to celebrate, it can still be chilly. As a performing musician Spring heralds the beginning of the busy season and sometimes hours of strumming and fiddling away while exposed to the elements. These gloves are inspired by the many performances I have spent wishing I had a little something for my hands. They are thin enough to allow movement, but just warm enough to help fend off that nip lingering in the air.

Sourwood Mountain is a traditional old-time American dance tune. Exact geographic origin is unknown, however, it usually appears in collections of southern mountain songs. Variations of this tune were collected by folklorists dating to the early 1900s spanning across North Carolina, Virginia, Kentucky, Tennessee, Georgia, and Missouri.

All three sizes of this glove may be completed with two skeins of yarn. However, if you extend the pattern, or wish to keep your gauge swatch, you will need a third skein for the largest size. The leaf pattern on the hand is worked across one needle for ease of keeping your place. If you find that the purls at the beginning and end this needle are showing ladders, try purling through the back loops of these stitches to pull them in.

SIZE
S[M, L] (Shown in size S)

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Cuff circumference: 6[6.5, 7] inches
Hand circumference: 7[7.5, 8] inches
Length: 8 inches

MATERIALS
spacer Rowan Wool Cotton [50% wool, 50% cotton; 123yd/113m per 50g skein]; color: #930 Riviera; 2 skeins

Recommended needle size:
spacer 1 set of four US #5/3.75mm double-point needles
spacer 1 set US #3/3.25mm straight needles (or 2 sizes smaller than needles used to obtain gauge)
[always use a needle size that gives you the gauge listed below -- every knitter's gauge is unique]
spacer 1 US size F/4mm crochet hook (used for button loops)
spacer Cable needle
spacer 3 stitch markers
spacer Yarn needle
spacer 6 buttons, 5/8 inch diameter ; buttons shown are Starstruck design from Roosterick Designs

GAUGE
26 sts/36 rows = 4 inches in stockinette st using larger needles

Note: For this project, yarn is worked more tightly than recommended ball band gauge, producing a firm fabric.

PATTERN NOTES
[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here.]
Instructions for basic crochet stitches can be found here.

C2BP: Slip 1 st to cable needle and hold to back of work; k1, p1 from cable needle.

C2FP: Slip 1 st to cable needle and hold to front of work; p1, k1 from cable needle.

C5BP: Slip 2 sts to cable needle and hold to back of work; k3, p2 from cable needle.

C5FP: Slip 3 sts to cable needle and hold to front of work; p2, k3 from cable needle.

M1L (left-leaning increase): Insert left needle, from front to back, under horizontal strand of yarn running between last stitch on left needle and first stitch on right needle; knit this stitch through back loop. 1 stitch increased.

M1R (right-leaning increase): Insert left needle, from back to front, under horizontal strand of yarn running between last stitch on left needle and first stitch on right needle; knit this stitch through front loop. 1 stitch increased.

MB: [K1, yo, k1] in next st; 1 st increased to 3 sts. Turn work. P3 tbl, turn work. K3, pass second and third sts on right needle over first stitch; 3 sts decreased to 1 st.

Pfb: Purl into front, then back of stitch. 1 st increased.

cuff chartsRight Cuff Pattern (Worked over 23 sts):
Row 1 [RS]: K1, p1, k1, p2, C2FP, p3, C5BP, p5, k1, p1, k1.
Row 2 [WS]: P1, k1, p1, k7, p3, k3, p1, k3, p1, k1, p1.
Row 3 [RS]: K1, p1, k1, p3, C2FP, C5BP, p3, MB, p3, k1, p1, k1.
Row 4 [WS]: P1, k1, p1, k3, p1, k5, p4, k4, p1, k1, p1.
Row 5 [RS]: K1, p1, k1, p3, C5BP, p4, C2BP, p3, k1, p1, k1.
Row 6 [WS]: P1, k1, p1, k4, p1, k6, p3, k3, p1, k1, p1.
Row 7 [RS]: K1, p1, k1, p3, k3, p5, C2BP, p4, k1, p1, k1.
Row 8 [WS]: P1, k1, p1, k5, p1, k5, p3, k3, p1, k1, p1.
Row 9 [RS]: K1, p1, k1, p3, k3, p4, C2BP, p2, MB, p2, k1, p1, k1.
Row 10 [WS]: P1, k1, p1, k2, p1, k3, p1, k4, p3, k3, p1, k1, p1.
Row 11 [RS]: K1, p1, k1, p3, C5FP, p1, C2BP, p3, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1.
Row 12 [WS]: P1, k1, p1, k2, p1, k4, p1, k1, p3, k5, p1, k1, p1.
Row 13 [RS]: K1, p1, k1, p5, C5FP, p3, C2BP, p2, k1, p1, k1
Row 14 [WS]: P1, k1, p1, k3, p1, k3, p3, k7, p1, k1, p1.
Row 15 [RS]: K1, p1, k1, p3, MB, p3, C5FP, C2BP, p3, k1, p1, k1.
Row 16 [WS]: P1, k1, p1, k4, p4, k5, p1, k3, p1, k1, p1.
Row 17 [RS]: K1, p1, k1, p3, C2FP, p4, C5FP, p3, k1, p1, k1.
Row 18 [WS]: P1, k1, p1, k3, p3, k6, p1, k4, p1, k1, p1.
Row 19 [RS]: K1, p1, k1, p4, C2FP, p5, k3, p3, k1, p1, k1.
Row 20 [WS]: P1, k1, p1, k3, p3, k5, p1, k5, p1, k1, p1.
Row 21 [RS]: K1, p1, k1, p2, MB, p2, C2FP, p4, k3, p3, k1, p1, k1.
Row 22 [WS]: P1, k1, p1, k3, p3, k4, p1, k3, p1, k2, p1, k1, p1.
Row 23 [RS]: K1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p3, C2FP, p1, C5BP, p3, k1, p1, k1.
Row 24 [WS]: P1, k1, p1, k5, p3, k1, p1, k4, p1, k2, p1, k1, p1.
Repeat Rows 1-24 for Right Cuff Pattern.

Left Cuff Pattern (Worked over 23 sts):
Row 1 [RS]: K1, p1, k1, p5, C5FP, p3, C2BP, p2, k1, p1, k1
Row 2 [WS]: P1, k1, p1, k3, p1, k3, p3, k7, p1, k1, p1.
Row 3 [RS]: K1, p1, k1, p3, MB, p3, C5FP, C2BP, p3, k1, p1, k1.
Row 4 [WS]: P1, k1, p1, k4, p4, k5, p1, k3, p1, k1, p1.
Row 5 [RS]: K1, p1, k1, p3, C2FP, p4, C5FP, p3, k1, p1, k1.
Row 6 [WS]: P1, k1, p1, k3, p3, k6, p1, k4, p1, k1, p1.
Row 7 [RS]: K1, p1, k1, p4, C2FP, p5, k3, p3, k1, p1, k1.
cuff chartsRow 8 [WS]: P1, k1, p1, k3, p3, k5, p1, k5, p1, k1, p1.
Row 9 [RS]: K1, p1, k1, p2, MB, p2, C2FP, p4, k3, p3, k1, p1, k1.
Row 10 [WS]: P1, k1, p1, k3, p3, k4, p1, k3, p1, k2, p1, k1, p1.
Row 11 [RS]: K1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p3, C2FP, p1, C5BP, p3, k1, p1, k1.
Row 12 [WS]: P1, k1, p1, k5, p3, k1, p1, k4, p1, k2, p1, k1, p1.
Row 13 [RS]: K1, p1, k1, p2, C2FP, p3, C5BP, p5, k1, p1, k1.
Row 14 [WS]: P1, k1, p1, k7, p3, k3, p1, k3, p1, k1, p1.
Row 15 [RS]: K1, p1, k1, p3, C2FP, C5BP, p3, MB, p3, k1, p1, k1.
Row 16 [WS]: P1, k1, p1, k3, p1, k5, p4, k4, p1, k1, p1.
Row 17 [RS]: K1, p1, k1, p3, C5BP, p4, C2BP, p3, k1, p1, k1.
Row 18 [WS]: P1, k1, p1, k4, p1, k6, p3, k3, p1, k1, p1.
Row 19 [RS]: K1, p1, k1, p3, k3, p5, C2BP, p4, k1, p1, k1.
Row 20 [WS]: P1, k1, p1, k5, p1, k5, p3, k3, p1, k1, p1.
Row 21 [RS]: K1, p1, k1, p3, k3, p4, C2BP, p2, MB, p2, k1, p1, k1.
Row 22 [WS]: P1, k1, p1, k2, p1, k3, p1, k4, p3, k3, p1, k1, p1.
Row 23 [RS]: K1, p1, k1, p3, C5FP, p1, C2BP, p3, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1.
Row 24 [WS]: P1, k1, p1, k2, p1, k4, p1, k4, p3, k5, p1, k1, p1.
Repeat Rows 1-24 for Left Cuff Pattern.

hand charts

Right Hand Pattern (Worked over 13 sts at beginning; number of sts will vary as pattern is worked)
Rounds 1-2: K3, p10.
Round 3: C5FP, p8.
Round 4: P2, k3, p8.
Round 5: P2, C5FP, p6.
Round 6: P4, k3, p6.
Round 7: P4, C5FP, p4.
Round 8: P6, k3, p4.
Round 9: P5, C2BP, k1 tbl, C2FP, p3.
Round 10: P5, [k1 tbl, p1] twice, k1 tbl, p3.
Round 11: P4, C2BP, p1, k1 tbl, p1, C2FP, p2.
Rounds 12-13: P4, [k1 tbl, p2] three times.
Round 14: P4, k1, yo, [p2, k1 tbl] twice, p2. 14 sts.
Round 15: P4, yo, k2, [p2, k1 tbl] twice, p2. 14 sts.
Round 16: P4, k3, yo, [p2, k1 tbl] twice, p2. 16 sts.
Round 17: P4, yo, k4, [p2, k1 tbl] twice, p2. 17 sts.
Round 18: P4, k5, yo, [p2, k1 tbl] twice, p2. 18 sts.
Round 19: P4, k6, [p2, k1 tbl] twice, p2.
Round 20: P4, k4, k2tog, p2, k1, yo, p2, k1 tbl, p2.
Round 21: P4, ssk, k3, p2, yo, k2, p2, k1 tbl, p2.
Round 22: P4, k2, k2tog, p2, k3, yo, p2, k1 tbl, p2.
Round 23: P4, ssk, k1, p2, yo, k4, p2, k1 tbl, p2.
Round 24: P4, k2tog, p2, k5, yo, p2, k1 tbl, p2.
Round 25: P7, k6, p2, k1 tbl, p2.
Round 26: P7, k4, k2tog, p2, k1, yo, p2.
Round 27: P7, ssk, k3, p2, yo, k2, p2.
Round 28: P7, k2, k2tog, p2, k3, yo, p2.
Round 29: P7, ssk, k1, p2, yo, k4, p2.
Round 30: P7, k2tog, k2, k5, yo, p2.
Round 31: P10, k6, p2.
Round 32: P10, k4, k2tog, p2. 17 sts.
Round 33: P10, ssk, k3, p2. 16 sts.
Round 34: P10, k2, k2tog, p2. 15 sts.
Round 35: P10, ssk, k1, p2. 14 sts.
Round 36: P10, k2tog, p2. 13 sts.

Left Hand Pattern (Worked over 13 sts at beginning; number of sts will vary as pattern is worked)
Rounds 1-2: P10, k3.
Round 3: P8, C5BP.
Round 4: P8, k3, p2.
Round 5: P6, C5BP, p2.
Round 6: P6, k3, p4.
Round 7: P4, C5BP, p4.
Round 8: P4, k3, p6.
Round 9: P3, C2BP, k1 tbl, C2FP, p5.
Round 10: P3, [k1 tbl, p1] twice, k1 tbl, p5.
Round 11: P2, C2BP, p1, k1 tbl, p1, C2FP, p4.
Rounds 12-13: [P2, k1 tbl] three times, p4.
Round 14: [P2, k1 tbl] twice, p2, yo, k1, p4. 14 sts.
Round 15: [P2, k1 tbl] twice, p2, k2, yo, p4. 15 sts.
Round 16: [P2, k1 tbl] twice, p2, yo, k3, p4. 16 sts.
Round 17: [P2, k1 tbl] twice, p2, k4, yo, p4. 17 sts.
Round 18: [P2, k1 tbl] twice, p2, yo, k5, p4. 18 sts.
Round 19: [P2, k1 tbl] twice, p2, k6, p4.
Round 20: P2, k1 tbl, p2, yo, k1, p2, ssk, k4, p4.
Round 21: P2, k1 tbl, p2, k2, yo, p2, k3, k2tog, p4.
Round 22: P2, k1 tbl, p2, yo, k3, p2, ssk, k2, p4
Round 23: P2, k1 tbl, p2, k4, yo, p2, k1, k2tog, p4.
Round 24: P2, k1 tbl, p2, yo, k5, p2, ssk, p4.
Round 25: P2, k1 tbl, p2, k6, p7.
Round 26: P2, yo, k1, p2, ssk, k4, p7.
Round 27: P2, k2, yo, p2, k3, k2tog, p7.
Round 28: P2, yo, k3, p2, ssk, k2, p7.
Round 29: P2, k4, yo, p2, k1, k2tog, p7.
Round 30: P2, yo, k5, p2, ssk, p7.
Round 31: P2, k6, p10.
Round 32: P2, ssk, k4, p10. 17 sts.
Round 33: P2, k3, k2tog, p10. 16 sts.
Round 34: P2, ssk, k2, p10. 15 sts.
Round 35: P2, k1, k2tog, p10. 14 sts.
Round 36: P2, ssk, p10. 13 sts.

DIRECTIONS
Sourwood Mountainblank
RIGHT GLOVE

Cuff:
Using straight needles, CO 20 sts.
Row 1 [RS]: K1, p1, k to last 2 sts, p1, k1.
Row 2 [WS]: P1, k1, p1, k to last 3 sts, p1, k1, p1.
Repeat these 2 rows 1[1, 2] times more.

Increase Row [RS]: K1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p4, pfb, k1, m1, k1, pfb, p3, k1, p1, k1. 23 sts.
Next Row [WS]: P1, k1, p1, k5, p3, k6, p1, k2, p1, k1, p1.

Sizes M, L Only:
Next Row [RS]: K1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p6, k3, p5, k1, p1, k1.
Next Row [WS]: P1, k1, p1, k5, p3, k6, p1, k2, p1, k1, p1.

All Sizes:
Work Rows 1-24 of Right Cuff Pattern twice.

Size S Only:
Last Row [RS]: K1, p1, k1, p2, ssk, p3, ssk, k2tog, k1, p5, k1, p1, k1. 20 sts.
Loosely BO all sts.

Sizes M Only:
Next Row [RS]: K1, p1, k1, p2, k1, p4, C5BP, p5, k1, p1, k1.
Next Row [WS]: P1, k1, p1, k7, p3, k4, p1, k2, p1, k1, p1.
Last Row [RS]: K1, p1, k1, p2, ssk, p3, k2tog, k1, p3, p2tog, p2, k1, p1, k1. 20 sts.
Loosely BO all sts.

Size L Only:
Work Rows 1-2 of Right Cuff Pattern.
Next Row [RS]: K1, p1, k1, p3, C2FP, C5BP, p7, k1, p1, k1.
Next Row [WS]: P1, k1, p1, k9, p4, k4, p1, k1, p1.
Last Row [RS]: K1, p1, k1, p4, ssk, k1, ssk, p1, p2tog, p5, k1, p1, k1. 20 sts.
Loosely BO all sts.

Hand:
Turn the cuff so that the RS is facing, with the BO edge at right and the CO edge at left. Using double-point needles, working along long upper edge and beginning with fourth[fourth, third] row from BO edge, pick up and k 41[45, 49] sts. (Pick up 4 sts for every 5 rows, and 1 st in corner of CO edge.)

Divide sts between needles so that there are 13 sts on first needle (Needle 1), and 14[16, 18] sts each on second and third needles (Needles 2 and 3). Join to work in the round.

Round 1: Work Round 1 of Right Hand Pattern over sts on Needle 1; k20[24, 26], place marker, [p1, k1] four[four, five] times.
This round sets pattern for hand: sts on Needle 1 are worked in Right Hand Pattern, last 8[8, 10] sts of round are worked in 1x1 Rib as set, all other sts are worked in stockinette st.
Rounds 2-3: Work in pattern as set.
Round 4: Work in pattern to end of Needle 1; k8[8, 10], M1R, k to marker, M1L, slip marker, work in pattern to end. 43[47, 51] sts.
Round 5: Work in pattern as set.
Round 6: Work as for Round 4. 45[49, 53] sts.
Round 7: Work in pattern as set.
Round 8: Work as for Round 4. 47[51, 55] sts.
Rounds 9-18: Work in pattern as set.

Thumb Gusset:
Next Round: Work in pattern to end of Needle 1; k7, place marker, k1, M1R, M1L, k1, place marker, work in pattern to end. 49[53, 57] sts.
Increase Round: Work in pattern to first marker, k1, M1R, k to 1 st before second marker, M1L, k1, continue in pattern to end of round. 2 sts increased.
Repeat Increase Round 5[6, 7] times more. 61[67, 73] sts. There are 16[18, 20] gusset sts between first and second markers.

Next Round: Work in pattern to first marker; remove marker, BO 16[18, 20] sts, removing second marker; continue in pattern to end. 45[49, 53] sts.
Next Round: Work in pattern to bound-off sts, pick up and k 1 st in first bound-off st and 1 st in last bound-off st, continue in pattern to end. 47[51, 55] sts.
Continue in pattern as set until Round 36 of Right Hand Pattern is complete.

Upper Ribbing:
Round 1: P2tog, k1, [p1, k1] to end. 46[50, 54] sts.
Rounds 2-3: [P1, k1] to end.
Loosely BO all sts.

Sourwood Mountainblank
LEFT GLOVE

Cuff:
Using straight needles, CO 20 sts.
Row 1 [RS]: K1, p1, k to last 2 sts, p1, k1.
Row 2 [WS]: P1, k1, p1, k to last 3 sts, p1, k1, p1.
Repeat these 2 rows 1[1, 2] times more.

Increase Row [RS]: K1, p1, k1, p3, pfb, k1, m1, k1, pfb, p4, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1. 23 sts.
Next Row [WS]: P1, k1, p1, k2, p1, k6, p3, k5, p1, k1, p1.

Sizes M, L Only:
Next Row [RS]: K1, p1, k1, p5, k3, p6, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1.
Next Row [WS]: P1, k1, p1, k2, p1, k6, p3, k5, p1, k1, p1.

All Sizes:
Work Rows 1-24 of Left Cuff Pattern twice.

Size S Only:
Last Row [RS]: K1, p1, k1, p3, p2tog, k3, k2tog, p3, k2tog, p2, k1, p1, k1. 20 sts.
Loosely BO all sts.

Sizes M Only:
Next Row [RS]: K1, p1, k1, p5, C5FP, p4, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1.
Next Row [WS]: P1, k1, p1, k2, p1, k4, p3, k7, p1, k1, p1.
Last Row [RS]: K1, p1, k1, p2, p2tog, p3, k1, k2tog, p3, k2tog, p2, k1, p1, k1. 20 sts.
Loosely BO all sts.

Size L Only:
Work Rows 1-2 of Left Cuff Pattern.
Next Row [RS]: K1, p1, k1, p7, C5FP, C2BP, p3, k1, p1, k1.
Next Row [WS]: P1, k1, p1, k4, p4, k9, p1, k1, p1.
Last Row [RS]: K1, p1, k1, p5, p2tog, p1, k2tog, k1, k2tog, p4, k1, p1, k1. 20 sts.
Loosely BO all sts.

Hand:
Turn the cuff so that the RS is facing, with the CO edge at right and the BO edge at left. Using double-point needles, working along long upper edge and beginning at CO edge, pick up and k 41[45, 49] sts. (Pick up 4 sts for every 5 rows, picking up last st in fourth[fourth, third] row from BO edge.)

Divide sts between needles so that there are 14[16, 18] sts each on first and second needles (Needles 1 and 2), and 13 sts on third needle (Needle 3). Join to work in the round.

Round 1: [K1, p1] four[four, five] times, place marker, k12[16, 16], place marker, k8[8, 10]; work Round 1 of Left Hand Pattern over sts on Needle 3.
This round sets pattern for hand: first 8[8, 10] sts are worked in 1x1 Rib as set, sts on Needle 3 are worked in Left Hand Pattern, all other sts are worked in stockinette st.
Rounds 2-3: Work in pattern as set.
Round 4: Work in pattern to first marker, slip marker, M1L, k to marker, M1R, slip marker, work in pattern to end.
Round 5: Work in pattern as set.
Round 6: Work as for Round 4. 45[49, 53] sts.
Round 7: Work in pattern as set.
Round 8: Work as for Round 4. 47[51, 55] sts.
Rounds 9-18: Work in pattern as set, removing second marker.

Thumb Gusset:
Next Round: Work in pattern to first marker, k17[21, 23], place marker, k1, M1R, M1L, k1, place marker, work in pattern to end. 49[53, 57] sts.
Increase Round: Work in pattern to second marker, k1, M1R, k to 1 st before third marker, M1L, k1, continue in pattern to end of round. 2 sts increased.
Repeat Increase Round 5[6, 7] times more. 61[67, 73] sts. There are 16[18, 20] gusset sts between first and second markers.

Next Round: Work in pattern to second marker; remove marker, BO 16[18, 20] sts, removing third marker; continue in pattern to end. 45[49, 53] sts.
Next Round: Work in pattern to bound-off sts, pick up and k 1 st in first bound-off st and 1 st in last bound-off st, continue in pattern to end. 47[51, 55] sts.
Continue in pattern as set until Round 36 of Left Hand Pattern is complete.

Upper Ribbing:
Round 1: [K1, p1] to last 3 sts, k1, p2tog. 46[50, 54] sts.
Rounds 2-3: [K1, p1] to end.
Loosely BO all sts.

FINISHING
Button Loops:
Button loops are worked along BO end of each cuff.
Use sl st to join yarn in first st, [ch 3, skip next st, sc in following 7 sts] twice, ch 3, skip next st, sl st in last st. Fasten off, sew in end securely.

Weave in ends. Block gloves lightly. Sew buttons to each cuff, opposite button loops.

ABOUT THE DESIGNER
EricaBlank Erica Jackofsky is an artist in the true sense of the word. Born and raised on eastern Long Island, she has been performing (playing fiddle, flatfoot dancing, and singing) and traveling around the country with her family band, The Homegrown String Band, since 1997. It was during these travels that Erica discovered the joy of knitting and crocheting. Before long Erica established FiddleKnits and began to focus her energies on designing and creating

Ploriginal works of fiber art inspired by traditional American music.

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